Hi everyone, time for another learn with me series.
First of, I was having a great time using my AB. However, due to over excitement and I have tendency of breaking things, I actually did. I haven’t really unscrew the nozzle. I once did and placed it back. Me wanting it very tight like it should be, I forced it and because of that, perhaps, it already broke at that point in time. I can use it still afterwards and I haven’t noticed that it already broke until the second time I unscrew it. So better be careful of that.
Since I have no choice, I ordered nozzle from Hobbyland where I purchase my compressor and AB. They gave me two options, .3mm and .2mm. Me thinking that .2 is better, I ordered that one. Upon testing it, it worked, however, I noticed that there’s a little paint flow than usual. Other than my AB not properly cleaned, I found out that .2 really works like that. Nothing wrong with it, but IMO it’s more geared towards fine lines and not for me who wishes to spray in a big area. But definitely, this is still good. Now I’m forced to control the the paint flow XD
*image credit from wondermodels.com*
Moving on to my experiments, since I ordered a nozzle from Hobbyland, I also ordered a bottle of Alclad II Chrome. We all know that it’s a good product so it’s a good buy. I also tried using Tamiya Enamel Black as basecoat this time, also not using any primer but straight on the spoon. I noticed that using AB doesn’t really require primer anymore as paint tends to adhere better when AB is used. Tamiya Black Enamel is known for its anti-meta property (what a term?), the ability to withstand lacquer. We all know that it’s a big no no to paint lacquer over acrylic and enamel type of paints. But Tamiya’s Enamel can, magically, be painted with lacquer. Oh, before painting, make sure to shake the bottle thoroughly as pigments tend to stay over at the bottom.Also, Aclad paints are pre-thinned so no more worries in thinning and take note, don’t ever thin it further unless you know it has to be.
The one on the left was painted with Tamiya Enamel Black and the right side was painted with the same as basecoat then painted over with Alclad II Chrome. You can already see the reflectiveness of the Chrome. Luckily, it can further be reflective and I’ll explain it in a bit.
This picture shows you the difference between unbuffed and buffed finishes. To be honest, some part are already reflective, while some aren’t. The first one is like that, but the second one I painted were more consistent and most of it were not as reflective. I went on ahead and buffed it with microfiber cloth.
Here it is! See the difference? Well yeah, you should. Microfiber really helps.
Take note that the reflectiveness of your chrome will always be reliant on your basecoat and I’ll see a proof afterwards.
Here is a quick look at the comparison between Tamiya Acrylic Black + Pledge Wipe and Shine Concoction and Kisutte Ginsan Graphite Powder on the top vs what I did earlier. Of course, the crown goes to the latter but that’s because of the basecoat. Also, you can notice that using graphite powder make the finish darker, while even I used black for the both, Alclad II Chrome is lighter.
I was curious on an empty spraycan of Axe we had at home. I’m wondering if I can use it in a spraycan so that’s just what I did. I’ll do this in order to show you the significance of the nozzle cap on the finish using spraycans.
For this experiment, I used Bosny Gray Primer. Using the default nozzle cap and Axe’s are just the same, but using Tamiya’s is a lot better. Finer it truly is, but still, more rough than using Tamiya spraycans. It’s all really boils down to the paint quality itself. But we can’t blame Bosny, it’s not meant for our hobby.
Now let’s move on to the last experiment and that is achieving chrome and gold via spraycans.
First, I tried using just Bosny Black. Of course, I must use solely spraycans for this experiment as it’s what I’m trying to achieve. All these of these actually were already done by me back then but for the sake of everyone, I’m willing to do it again.
The pic on the left shows using one heavy coat of Bosny Black, which ain’t bad and the one on the right using two layers. Truthfully, I like the one on the right more. It’s even more reflective than Tamiya’s Enamel Black.
I have six sets of spoons with Bosny Black on it and only having a single spoon being the most reflective. I’ve tried using several brands here for variation and to show you what’s really the best.
It’s obvious who’s superior here. It’s on the most right. It’s even way more reflective than using Tamiya’s Enamel Black. You can even see me topless. Like I told you, basecoat is important! The Lotus, sadly, has grainy finish on it, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually smooth on the outside. Maybe it’s the inside that made it look like that. The one in the middle is not quite bad. You can see a bit of my reflection, but not quite the one we’re after for. Do take note that the first two can’t be buffed, either by cloth nor by clear gloss coat. The one on the right can be, but that’s for a later experiment.
The gold is the hardest to achieve. A very bright gold can be achieved, but no the reflective one.
The one on the right is so-so and the one on the farthest right is BAD! I’m not sure if I got a bad batch or it’s already expired (do they?). It’s VERY grainy and rough. You can’t even buff it by any means. However, on the middle, which is my favorite, is good. I love it and always will. It’s Rustoleum’s Gold. It has the most brilliance and has a richer finish. A flat coat can be used over it, but for all of these three, they all can’t be buffed.
Next post would be about candytone and some tricky experiments that I have little hope for.