Back with another LWM series. However, the next one might take a while. The rest would just be build and review posts. My Destiny Impulse really needs to get done and another and some more reviews, LOL! I’m getting a hang of this too much.
For the first experiment, I’ll do a technique called “powder sealing”. Yes, I named it myself cause I don’t know how to call it. For this experiment, we need our test pieces from before. The spoons that are painted and had some graphite powder on it. I’ll also do another experiment together with this but I’ll be using the once we painted with Alclad II Chrome.
Read this article in reference to the technique. I’ll translate it on my won words regardless.
First of, Alclad II Chrome is lacquer based, since it’s lacquer, it can be sealed with any clear colors nad topcoats, but it’s ridiculous to seal it with flat. On the other hand, graphite powder is sensitive, it doesn’t react quite well with paints on top of it. It’ll turn dull and ugly when you clear coat it. So, how do we seal it? In the technique I’m about to do, we’ll learn together.
The materials that we’ll need are:
1. Clear Color (Enamel Type)
2. Lighter Fluid
3. Airbrush /w compressor (air pressure adjustable)
The first step is to mix our paint. In the article, it says 1:2 ratio (1 part paint and 2 parts lighter fluid). The logic behind on using lighter fluid is that it dries quickly that the graphite powder has no time to react negatively against the paint. Obviously, why we use Enamel paint here is because only enamel type of paint can be thinned down using lighter fluid.
Second, put the paint on the airbrush. Set the pressure to 30psi at least.
Third is applying the dry layer. Spray on the part with a distance of 1/2 feet. Why is that so? Actually, the distance really depends on you. The goal is to ensure we don’t put too much of our paint on the part. This technique is called misting. It’s not completely putting too much paint on the part, but just some particles.
I have tried putting 3 layers of dry layer. You can go up to 4 if you really want to. I continued putting layer until the reflectiveness is a bit gone and you know there’s something on the top of the paint.
Here’s a sample of a dry layer using blue enamel.
Here’s the comparison between sealed and unsealed. I’ve used yellow enamel BTW.
For the last step, we need to apply the wet layer. The wet layer’s thinning ratio is from 1:2 up to 1:2.5. Totally up to you on what you’re comfortable. In my case, it’s still 1:2. The reason is, I mix an amount of paint that’s enough to put the dry and wet layer altogether. Once you’ve mixed or decided to the my thing, it’s time to paint up again. Set the PSI to 15. It’s actually up to you, the important thing is that we’ll paint according on how we normally do, thus calling it wet layer.
The first two spoons are the spoons with graphite powder and powder sealing. The last two are painted with Alclad II Chrome as undercoat then topped with Tamiya Acrylic Clear. I’ve messed up a bit on my red spoon. Turned orange actually because I don’t have enough amount to make it red. The green became less glossy, but somehow people like it the most other than the blue.
While the blue spoon was reflective even before, it actually became even more now. Thanks to the Blue Enamel, the results became like this. So I really recommend enamel when you want clear colors to be glossy using Tamiya brand.
Closer look at the four spoons.
Here’s a short comparison between the pure yellow enamel and yellow + orange enamel mix. Not much difference right? Actually, I can’t see the difference. Perhaps the yellow one is too thick. It’s not quite gold IMO. The gold I’m looking for is different than this. But for people who are contented with this, go ahead. Also, you’ll notice at the first pic that 3 spoons were under yellow and orange enamel paints. My original plan was to gradually increase the ratio of orange against yellow until I achieve the “gold” shade that I want. Alas, i found out that there aren’t much difference and doing the said experiment will be of waste.
Now the question is, if we can seal the powder using an AB, enamel paint and ligther fluid, can we do the same using spraycan? Well, for sure it dries quickly, but I don’t think it’s quite as fast as lighter fluid. Also, Bosny spraycans (the brand of spraycan that I’ll be using) have lacquer thinner on it so it might be too strong for our powder. Let’s find out together.
For our next experiment, we’ll be needing the ff:
1. Spraycan (specifically Bosny)
2. My handsomeness (required)
Don’t take #2 seriously XD
Anyway, all we’re gonna need is a spraycan. Make sure to do the proper measure in order to ensure it’ll properly work.
First step is doing the dry layer. The purpose of dry layer has been mentioned above already. Let’s do the misting then.
Here is the sample of my misting with 3 layers. Obviously, its pigments are way bigger than the one we used on the AB even when Tamyia nozzle was used. Oh BTW, the distance I used here is about 1 1/2 feet. Yes, that far and using Tamiya nozzle. Make sure that you do use Tamiya okay? I left it for about 15 min perhaps, then proceeded on the next step.
The last step is putting the wet layer. Just spray it normally as you do and here it is.
The one on the left is the result. I’m comparing it against the one that was sealed via enamel paint x lighter fluid combo. IMO, the one on the right is far better (shade wise). I’m also not sure if I really get it right. I mean, just look and stare at the result at the left. It’s beautiful right? Of course it is! However, I find it odd for the following reasons:
1. I don’t quite see the reflective chrome that the powder have produced using graphite powder. The reason you candytone is to actually see the undercoat. In this case, the shade of Bosny’s blue might be too strong or the undercoat got destroyed.
2. It’s basically more reflective than the undercoat. LOL! Blame Bosny’s formula , it actually became more reflective, hahaha!
That’s why now, I’m unsure if I really quite did the right thing. Can it be considered as candytone? Not sure so I’ll do it for the second time and now, I’ll use Clear Green since it’s lighter than blue.
Err, it’s quite rough and I can see that the undercoat wasn’t as reflective as before as before. I’m again topless on the spoons BTW. Maybe I did something wrong on the spoon this time that’s why it turned out that way?
Well, whatever. For sure, I proved a point. Sealing the powder is possible using spraycans. If you improve you spraycan skills, then expect better results. However, I don’t think it’ll be as good as the one you see on the right. IMO, you should use silver spraycan instead of powder cause it does a better job.
I’m not quite done yet, I have my short third experiment. Ever hear that Tamiya has color called, Chrome Silver. WOOOW! CHROME! Nope! Not and the reason why is this.
See? It’s just silver and not chrome. I also bought a paint before from Tamiya, a spraycan to be specific, whose name is “Chrome Yellow”. If that’s the name, then it’ll most likely be reflective gold right? Well, Tamiya is good enough to show via its spraycap that it’s no more than just a yellow paint. So don’t ever believe any crap from Tamiya that they have any reflective paint XD
PS: Powder Sealing credits goes to the Nan Nei. GOOD JOB! Also thank you Ellem Ooi Kok Hor, the site owner which translated the technique.