Part 2: Transcend

<< Part 1: Review



Part 1: Review

Part 2: Transcend


Putting the decals is pain in the ass, BIGTIME! I hate dry transfers and add the fact that there are many curved areas and you know what that means. I actually am halfway in putting the decals, but MOST of it SUCKS! I mean, the mistakes are sooo obvious that I’d rather buy a new set of decals. Finding it could be VERY difficult and waiting for Bandai to release waterslide for this guy means another waiting game and I don’t want that anymore. Luckily, I stumbled upon an album of a local reseller. Guess what, he sells MG Epyon decals, and not just decals but waterslides. Obviously, it won’t be Bandai, but I have never thought of its quality where it would be par or not. So I ordered it together with MG RF Kai waterslides. Oh, if you’re ever wondering, they’re different from samueldecals.

Experience with it is also a pain in the ass, but better than the dry transfer. Though it’s a bit more easier to put than dry transfer, the quality sucks. First, the color isn’t the same. The gray is darker and the red turned in to orange. Second, it’s too sticky. Once the decal has bee folded, say goodbye. Well, you can at least save it, but it’ll not be in its former glory. It’ll be stretched out. Lastly, details aren’t that good. Some decals have prints on them, I know, it’s rare for someone to read those, but here, it’s impossible to. It’s just blurry. But far away, I think it’ll suffice. Anyhow, the effect is what I’m after so it’s GOOD ENOUGH. For some parts, it’s really not advisable to use the waterslide, so I used both type of decals for the wings. I even used the clear stickers because I messed up the wateslides.

Had trouble putting the topcoat. I didn’t know what happened to me, but I overcoated it. Some turned white. Well that’s the negative effect you’ll get. Somehow, I felt at ease that I’m using Tamiya, but overcoating it, brand won’t matter. Its outcome will still suck. Thankfully, the overcoat isn’t that bad. I was able to fix most of them. Though it’s obvious that I fixed that part because that area is darker than the rest.

As you might have noticed, I opted in using seals for the eyes, forehead and backhead cameras. But I used clear green for the orb in the chest and eyes of the dragon in the feet. Reason is, the orb in the chest is noticeable so I painted it clear. Well, the clear green for the feet isn’t noticeable so I opted in using seals for the eyes and camera lenses. I could’ve used seals in the feet as well and put it over the clear part, but I don’t want to draw the focus on its feet.

Paints/Decals Used:

Coldfire’s MG Epyon Waterslide Decals
Mr. Mark Setter – For the decals
Copic Marker 0.03 (Black) – For panel lines
Copic Marker 0.02 (Gray) – For panel lines (specifically for the face mask only)
Real Touch Marker (Red) – For the pesky nubmarks on the red parts
Tamiya Clear Green (Acrylic) (Handpainted) – For the orb in the chest and eyes of the dragon in the feet
Mr. Super Clear (Gloss) – To protect the decals against the Flat coat
Tamiya Clear (Flat) – Final topcoat

3 Responses to “Part 2: Transcend”

  1. darkandchoco Says:

    Seems you had a trouble with those decals, thinking of it, it’s been a long while since I’ve built an MG kit =3

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